Meerkerk-Antoing

 

Due to the persistent gale, which caused cruising to be out of the question, we stayed in Meerkerk for a week.

One day the winds were so strong that the bridges weren’t operated, queuing commercials not withstanding.

 The light is strange, which brings out a beautiful rainbow

 Crested waves in the Merwede canal at Meerkerk

 Our neighbour, a windmill that drives a water wheel, was doing overtime these days

On leaving Amersfoort we had planned to go back to Holland for a few days, starting April 24^th.

In order to do that we have to leave our ship in a save place and we knew just the spot; Antoing in the south of Belgium near Tournai.

Our planning said we would have a 13 day margin, provided we would cruise from 9 to 3 on the other days;  a quiet pace with enough margin to spend a few days moored once in a while.

Now, we’re used to a planning being just that and in real life things are different. This time was no exception.

Before leaving Meerkerk we had gained two days by doing the trip in one day, but we were set back by two days because of the batteries and six because of the bad weather. So, we still had a nice margin but less than we wanted for trips in Belgium.

Last year, on our way back, we sailed right through Den Bosch, which is a nice route for us. It’s not for commercials, too narrow and thus time-consuming and a strain on the town.

March, 2015 saw the opening of the Máxima canal that bypasses Den Bosch for the bigger ships.

We hadn’t realised that that meant no more Den Bosch for us too.

The new canal is not as nice, quite boring in fact; it’s 9 kilometres and counts 8 bridges, must have cost a fortune.

 Máxima canal

We left Den Bosch on Easter day, to find our way to Belgium via the Zuid Willems canal; it would normally take two days because of all the locks but this day we could carry on and all locks were readied for us. The lock keepers were glad for something to do and all day we didn’t view a cruising ship; all moored because of Easter.

The one day gain was lost again next day because, something we had not foreseen, in Belgium everything is closed, and that not only on first but second Easter day as well. So the locks were closed and we had to wait in front of the first Belgium lock.

Just before that we had crossed the border, really not conspicuous if it weren’t for the noticeable difference in maintenance of the water ways and its sides.

 Where Holland becomes Belgium is quite noticeable

After the Bocholt-Herenthals canal we had to cross Antwerp harbour and go by the Royer lock to cross to the tidal Scheldt river in order to get to the Dender river.

Each time we go on the Scheldt  river it takes quite a bit of figuring to decide when is a good time to do so. You have to take the tide into account, as cruising into the current is a waste of time and gasoil, but the duration of the trip is important as well as the tide changes during the ride. Also we have to take into account the moment that the tide changes and so at what time we can leave; 4 o’clock in the morning or at night in the dark are no options for us.

Each day the change of tide shifts by about half an hour. For us this meant – this time – that we had to do the Scheldt before the weekend instead, like we would have preferred, after the weekend because that would have meant cruising in the dark.

 Floating jetty on the Scheldt, meant to go up and down with the tides; doesn’t work all the time apparently

The Northern part of the Dender, a North-South waterway in Belgium, down as far as Aalst is well used by commercials and we could see preparations going on to enlarge the locks and the canalised stretches to facilitate bigger ships.

For us, on the one hand a pity, for it will become less rural and busier, but on the other hand it is good to find, for us too, that navigation increases on these waterways so they will stay open and be well maintained.

Past Aalst it get difficult for bigger ships and we too had to crawl to manage all the bends and the lack of sufficient water under the keel.

Here the Dender and surroundings are lush and green. The locks from Aalst to Blaton – the most Southern point – are hand operated. Both in Belgium and in France this is being done less and less and most locks are (partly) automated.

 Lockkeepers at work

Not just the locks are operated manually but bridges as well, sometimes the bridge keeper acts as a counter weight

We were the first boat to cross past Aalst, and boy, did we find out we were.

All after-winter teething problems were presented to us. Lock doors that didn’t open or close completely and enormous amounts of rubbish collecting at each lock.

At Ninove we had to wait for a day and a half before they managed to open the bridge

After our mishap last year with the broken down bow thruster  we’ve become careful. So, slowly in or out of the lock and trying to shift the bigger detritus aside.

 The rubbish in and around the locks is plentiful

Starting last year we carry a scooter on board, which we like as it enlarges our range compared to cycling.

But, alas, it can just happen that something breaks down just as you’re quite a distance away from the ship, having just been buying things.

Here is Michel pushing the scooter, the accelerator cable snapped, carrying a crate full of groceries at the back looking for a garage or such. I am walking behind carrying two big sacks of toilet paper (which you do need from time to time).

Luckily we found someone who could help us out, temporarily, by cutting the cable so Michel could manually operate it. That is how we got home and by now it has been fixed; so lucky this time.

 Michel doing the heavy work

One striking phenomenon – that has been striking as long as we are cruising – is that lock keepers are on the phone when opening or closing doors.

It makes no difference where or in which country, whether they are young students or older pro’s, they are on the phone all the time at each lock.

Sometimes you are accompanied by a two men crew that comes with you all day, which is necessary if you’re doing ten locks on one day, and at each lock they telephone.

Would it be standing orders?

Lock keepers on the phone

As we came off the Dender we had just a few hours to cruise to Antoing, our destination. We by now had a one day margin left on our original planning, so all right.

At the end of the day we reached the point where we had to do two more locks and half an hours cruising but, as we could spend the night there comfortably, we decided to postpone it till next day.

The lock keeper had switched the lights to green for us, but we informed her, thanking her, on the VHF that we would not go in and would pass the lock next day.

She thanked us for notifying her, whishing us a pleasant day and ‘till next time.

We were really flabbergasted when next day no lights showed on the lock and there was no response on the VHF.

We looked on the net if perhaps we missed another public holiday or some extra information, nothing.

There was one boat moored near us and the skipper told us that all public transport in Belgium was on strike, so the locks were too. They had just picked it up on the radio, not having a clue as to why and for how long.

 All lights at the lock are out

Luckily the strike was over next day and so we arrived in Antoing, having no margin left.

But, as said, it has happened before.

Meanwhile we have returned from Holland, the car has been returned to the hire company and tomorrow we carry on, crossing the border to France about which more in the next blog

Closure and starting again

the  whole trip as we made it last year

Although I sincerely intended to close last years cruising season by publishing a final blog, I didn’t.

So here is catching up.

 A few figures on our 2014 itinerary:

2147 Kilometers

345 engine running hours

448 times that an artefact had to be serviced, of which 297 locks, the rest were bridges.

After leaving Antwerp harbour, where we had the bow thruster repaired, we went back to Amersfoort by way of the Belgian Kempen, Zuid-Willemsvaart and the Merwede Canal, the ever beautiful Koninginnenlock and the river Vecht.

The Koninginnenlock at Vreeswijk

We lived, for years, near the Vecht and made many a bicycle ride along its banks, but experiencing it from the water is different. Especially with a big barge like ours it’s quite an experience, as the Vecht is better suited to smaller boats, but it can be done and is quite fun.

The Vecht, nice boat, nice house

Cruising the Eem we suddenly realised that sanding is not allowed in Amersfoort harbour and there were a few patches to be treated before winter. So, whilst cruising, I quickly did all sanding and, once moored, we could treat the patches.

quick, quick, the last sanding

And then we were back in Amersfoort and of course we met up again with friends and family, always one of winters treats.

This time it comprised also seeing our grandchild, who had to be immersed in the art of steering, never to young to start.

Prospective helmsman

In November we went on a holiday to Spain, where we enjoyed the weather, the scenery, more family and of course al the wonderful food.

We especially frequented the tapas bars.

This is how you get the bill, chalked on the counter

Winter in Amersfoort was a bit unsettling as the river had to be dredged and several ships had to move several times to different locations.

it fitted only just

 But this winter we also enjoyed Nathans weekly stay over’s and our new roles as grandparents. 

All clichés are true, like you have all benefits and no disadvantages, you can spend more time and have more patience etc. and, oh boy, how nice it is to have a manikin in your house every week and he does grow fast!
 

we have a visitor!

so cosy, just like with his mum when she was little

One morning in January I sleepily went into the kitchen and was surprised to find that drawers and doors kept opening. I took me some time to realise that something funny went on and then I was wide awake instantly. The ship was askew, and quite a bit too.

I alarmed Michel who came out of bed and immediately went out to look. I opened hatches to check for water.

Michel then entered smiling, stating that we had gotten stuck on a bollard.

stuck on a bollard

The water levels of the Eem rise and fall quickly, we know that and take it into account when mooring. It never happened in previous years and we don’t know why it happened now.

Never the less, we were tilted and moving 70 tons sideways by hand, no way.

We, for a moment, considered asking the guys who repaired the street to use their shovel but decided against it for fear of damage.

And then Michel thought (it was still early morning for us) that the simplest solution would be to start our engine, rev it up – the lines would keep us in place – which would push us up and side ways. Worked just fine.

And then it was March, more nice days with rising temperatures.

That causes the itch and so it’s time to remove the curtains that keep us warm in the pilot house, to put the stools back, to buy new plants for the deck and to start making plans.

away with the curtains and in come the stools

We planned a trip that will bring us, via Belgium and Paris, along (not on) the Loire river to mid France. Then, more easterly, we go North and then go back to Holland by way of the Meuse river.

We feel like going.

our intended itinarary for 2015

So we started off and immediately started with bad luck. Let’s hope this will be all for this year.

According to plan we left Amersfoort on Wednesday, 25^th in the afternoon planning a two hour trip as far as the Randmeren. Then an early start next morning in order to reach Muiden before ten, then on to Weesp and then onwards.

Because of the weather predictions – hard winds – only Thursday morning was right to cross the Randmeren; when the wind is too strong all our furniture and such is at risk because of  the waves.

Things went different.

After mooring on day one it appeared that we couldn’t start the engine. A bit of research led to the conclusion that the batteries had died. If only it had happened earlier that day on the try runs or even earlier that winter when we had moved, but no, it had to be on a spot far removed from everyone and everything.

To make matters worse, the battery that starts the genny had died on us too.

So we were facing loneliness, no heating and no light, awful.

All batteries were 7 years old, with a life expectancy of 5, so small wonder; but what timing!!

Fortunately, we had, through our neighbours in Amersfoort, met a ships mechanic and we called him right away. The man is a life saver.

Thursday morning his wife came along with a battery to start the genny and in the afternoon the new batteries for the main engine were installed.

We did have to tow the boat about 100 meters, the good old fashioned way, so the batteries could be put on board.

Michel at the back, Rebecca upfront and we made it

 It was quite a challenge, pulling 70 tons, in the rain, wind in your face (thankfully in the right direction) the way they used to in times past.

Then we were up and running, and was the waiting for the wind to lessen to continue our trip.

Weather predictions showed that Saturday morning, 28^th  would be the only period when the wind would be less than 5 Bft, so it was either then or wait for another week.

Although we’re not early risers by choice we had quickly made the decision and at 6:30 we set sail.

By then it was weekend when lots of bridges are not operated and because of that and of an out of order lock we had to reschedule our route.

115 km

Eventually we cruised until 16:30 and then found ourselves in Meerkerk.

Now and the days ahead there will be strong winds, crests on the waves in the Merwedecanal and heavy rains, so we stay put. We still have lots of chores.

More about that in my next blog.

Saint Dizier to Tweede Havendok (Second Harbourdock) in Antwerp

We found a dry dock, have been there too in the meantime but it was no piece of cake.

As we had already found out there are not many possibilities for repairs for our size barge in France. We tried to get information wherever we could and got a negative reply or none at all. Plus, August is a trying time to get anything done in France as many businesses are closed.

Meanwhile we knew that we could be serviced in Antwerp on the 8^th of September so we decided to amble along over there, trying our luck at yards as we passed, but to no avail.

Michel picked up on cruising without the bow thruster and the crew also got better in mooring, managing locks and other manoeuvres; one gets used to everything although we had our moment.

At least we now know why we wanted a bow thruster in the first place.

Berry-au-Bac

Taking the by now familiar route through Reims we cruised to Berry-au-Bac. In the olden days a cross roads for the interior traffic with shops, chandlery, a bunker station and café’s. Now all these buildings are derelict and, pleasure boats apart, only the occasional peniche passes. It still is a nice spot to linger for a few days.

From here we took the Canal latéral à l’Aisne and the canalized Aisne (in turn river and canal), a hitherto unknown waterway for us and very beautiful.

Lots of locks, a few of them so called double-chambers: the lower chamber gets filled by the upper chamber and then in its turn empties into the river.

Double chamber lock

Soissons treated us to a beautiful rainbow showing over some old houses on the harbour.

Rainbow over Soissons

And here we had visitors who came by car, enabling us to see more of the surrounding countryside like the Pierrefonds castle, a most impressive building. The oldest parts date from the 12^th century, it was demolished in the 17^th and completely restored in the 19^th century, with pomp and luxury, by Napoleon. It is still intact these days and well worth a visit.

Pierrefonds Castle near Cambrai

And now for something completely different; a few days later we visited Guise, we went there on our scooter. So different but most impressive is this, partially dug up and dug out, medieval castle. Volunteers are working there for over 60 years already, also guiding you through endless tunnels, corridors, caverns and halls, informing you that only 25% has been restored.

The only remaining building that was built above-ground, the tower with a kitchen high up and a still visible chimney.

 

Both castles well worth a second visit, but then taking our grandson :-).

After Soissons was the first time in weeks that we had no visitors and we could apply ourselves to (overdue) household tasks, filling in our tax forms (a bit overdue as well) and repairing mooring lines. 

 

Michel doing a bit of bookkeeping and repairing damaged mooring lines (splicing a new loop, also on a 12 strand rope)

Leaving Choissy-au-Bac we cycled to the Armistice Clearing, a most fascinating spot well within the woods where they signed the truce between Germany and the Allied forces on November 18^th, 1918; a defeat for the Germans marking the end of the first World War. But also the truce between Germany and France of July 22^nd 1940, a big victory for the Germans, was signed at this very spot.

The cariage in the museum

the spot where it was situated both times

In 1918 a railway dining carriage was shunted to this open spot where the declaration would be signed. Later the wagon was brought to a Paris museum, but in 1940 Hitler ordered the carriage to be returned to the very same spot, restoring the very same interior. By paying attention to all the little details, like the setting of the table and sticking to the same times of arrival and departure, Hitler reversed the roles, thus emphasizing Germany’s victory.

Afterwards he ordered the spot to be demolished, except for the statue of Marshall Foch, erected in 1918, who now looked out over empty space.

The wagon was brought to Germany as a trophy and destroyed in 1945, so the present carriage is a replica.

Hitler and entourage stepping into the carriage

This is where history is made palpable.

As we had plenty of time we decided to take the Canal Saint Quentin back north instead of the Canal du Nord. Last year we went through the tunnel in this canal without a hitch. Although it is the longest tunnel (5.3 K) in France and the only one where you’re being pulled through by means of an electrical tug, we foresaw no problems.

The Saint Quentin canal is nice to cruise, but then … that tunnel.

Alas, things turned out differently. Last year the brought out one line, that split in front of our bow, so we stayed central behind the tug.

For reasons unclear they now brought out a single rope, brand new and very stiff, and things went wrong. We followed all instructions to a tee and three times in a row our ship was pulled into the tunnels side. Without a bow thruster there was no way to correct and we felt powerless; only by shouting and hooting we could make them stop the tug.

The tug’s crew got angrier and angrier and started shouting commands in French which we didn’t understand which made them shout even louder.

Meanwhile our railing was a bit bent and quite a bit of paint was scraped so we were not too happy either.

So it happened that the tug’s crew made us loosen the rope and told us to cruise the remainder of the trip on our own.

We happily did so, covering the remaining 5 K without a hitch.

Afterwards the damage was inspected and reported to a VNF official who told us that this was already the second time that week and two other ships reported the same problems.

It’s a pity but it’s just paint!

We will take this tunnel again next time, but only when the bow thruster is in mint condition.

Before we crossed the border to Belgium we paid Cambrai a visit. What we didn’t know was that there was a fair, covering all of the centre, we’ve never seen anything like it. Not one haunted house, but three; not one shooting gallery but ten at least and so on.

I get a bit sick already by thinking about a Ferris wheel, but looking at a wheel where people were swung high over the town halls tower, yack!

Cambrai fair

Further north we had arranged a meeting in Tournai with friends, who were on their own barge. We cruised together for a few days, doing the Bossuit Canal and the Lys river until we reached Deinze. Michel and I made a slight detour to Oudenaarde and back, because we hadn’t been there before. The only thing we did there was take a nice photo of our ship in front of the church and that was all because it was raining plentiful. Still on the list!

In front of the church in Oudenaarde

In Belgium you can have your fill with nice beer and after a cycling tour it is very rewarding.

The only reason for putting this picture in the blog is that I think it is a nice picture.

Cheers to the readers of this blog!

So far, so good and then via Ghent and the Scheldt river, tidal and no bow thruster, to the ship yard of the Moordtgat family. 

back out and park in

First we had to back out and park in between the giant ships that were all over the place so we could get into dry dock. Beware, where our neighbours could only get their bow or stern in, we fitted completely.

The skippers have time off, there’s other people working on their barge, so they have plenty of time to watch us and make comments (all nice and positive).

As we were completely out of the water we wanted an inspection of our propeller, as we still felt something was not right after we had a steel cable wrapped around the prop last year (see the September 2013 blog).

It turned out to be wise and, advised by our caring and helpful insurer, the prop was taken care off. All in a day’s work for those chaps and refitted the same day.

A tear and some missing bits in the propeller blade

Propeller is freed

 

Propeller is measured and put back in shape, with some machinery but mainly by hitting it hard with a hammer

  

At the end of the day the propeller is mounted again, smoother and shinier than we’ve ever seen it.

 

Our prop was but a small one and there was a huge shed filled with big ones, waiting to be repaired

What we really came for was the bow thruster.

Once out of the water we could clearly see a lot of rubbish in and around the props and we could also see that the bars prevented access. You can get your hand in between but then you cannot get a good grip on something so tightly wound, as the diver in the Bassin de la Villette had found out.

A perfect view of the rubbish behind the bars

At first we had no bars at the tunnels openings so quite often branches and rubbish went in and damaged the props, most of the time getting out on the other side, but not good.

Now we have bars, less branches and plastic bags get in, but when something gets stuck you can’t get at it.

We’re considering mesh, that should be easy to remove, but we are still pondering.

The catch

After half an hours serious pulling and pushing everything had been removed; it turned out to be part of a big bag with tie ribs and all and quite a lot of it.

We did a dry run with the bow thruster that produced a bit of a rattling sound but the mechanic said it was all right and as it should be.

Back went the bars, then the stern prop was refitted and we went back into the water.

Last inspection by the skipper, both in the dock and in the water we look a bit like the dinghy that the boats around us carry on deck

Hurray, we’re going in again and can be off. What a pity, it didn’t work that way. Once in the water the bow thruster did not function, when doing the dry run with no pressure it seemed OK, but now there was no jet.

So, off to the quay again, everybody went home and we had to wait till next day.

From the inside we could diagnose that a big part of the thruster, the gears, had to be replaced, but only after demounting the thruster. And that required to be lifted again. So we had to consult our insurer (VNN was very helpful again), a surveyor had to visit us, we had to arrange things with the dealer in Amsterdam and then we had to wait for the delivery of the package.

The new tailpiece with new props

By Friday we went out again, bars had to be cut away, tailpiece to be replaced, bars welded back and when the paint was dry we were off.

Everything functions as expected, no strange sounds or curious vibrations.

Although everybody had been kind and helpful and there was not a lot that we could do ourselves the days were tiring, if only because the Antwerp harbour is a round the clock operation and you notice that all around you.

After an hours trip we entered the canal from Schoten to Dessel and we moored at the first green and quiet spot, getting our feet under the table again.

This year’s last leg and blog will be from here to Amersfoort, more about that later.